Skin Care Blog | Lexli

Acne: Not Just for Kids

Lexli International — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 19:41:19 GMT

If you’re an adult suffering from acne you’re hardly alone. It is estimated that 25% of all adult men and 50% of adult women experience acne at some point in their adult lives. The fact is, acne can persist into middle age and can even start at that time.

Let’s explore the four main causes of acne, which often work in conjunction:

1. Follicular keratinization (abnormally “sticky” cells)
2. Excess sebum production (skin oil).
3. Colonization of propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes are the bacteria that cause acne.)
4. Inflammation.

Given these four causes of acne, the typical scenario is this:

The presence of abnormally sticky cells coupled with the excess production of sebum cause a hair follicle to plug. The obstructed follicle then becomes engorged with oil and dead skin cells and initially becomes a comedo (whitehead). This creates an ideal environment for bacteria. As P. acnes flourish within the follicle, they release proteins (enzymes) that attract white blood cells to the area, causing inflammation in their quest to heal the situation. This creates a pustule (pimple). If the inflammation is not controlled, the condition worsens, resulting in a more serious acne lesion, such as a nodule or cyst.

So what can you do? Answer: look for products featuring active ingredients proven beneficial in the treatment of acne’s four causes. Among those that address follicular keratinization are retinoids, a form of vitamin A, glycolic acid (an alpha-hydroxy acid), and salicyclic acid (a beta-hydroxy acid). These ingredients help to remove blockages in the hair follicle and stimulate the establishment of proper skin function. Ingredients that address excess sebum are zink pyrithione, an anti-fungal agent; sulfur, which reduces oil gland activity; and niacinamide—also known as vitamine B3, which decreases fatty acid production in the sebaceous glands. Benzoyl peroxide, eucalyptus oil and tea tree oil all help to control P. acnes—so keep your eye out for those ingredients.

For inflammation, look for products featuring aloe vera, which has proven anti-inflammatory abilities. Other beneficial ingredients to address inflammation are arnica, commonly referred to as “Leopard’s Bane,” and bisabolol, which can also reduce the potential for scar formation caused by acne.

Remember, acne is a chronic problem and controlling it requires patience. To expedite results, I recommend a diet rich in fresh fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and beans – foods rich in antioxidants, while avoiding white bread and potatoes – foods that can cause a rapid surge in blood sugar, which can lead to acne. And, when choosing makeup, use only noncomedogenic types (will not block pores). Finally, no matter how tempting, do not “pop” acne lesions. This can lead to further inflammation and the spread of acne symptoms.

- Dr. A.

Understanding and Treating Dry Winter Skin

Lexli International — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:58:59 GMT

Ahhh . . . dry winter skin. Just another of the many joys that accompany colder winter temperatures. Did you know that approximately 81 million Americans claim to suffer from "winter itch," as it is commonly called? To learn the facts surrounding why we experience dry skin in the winter, as well as the comprehensive methods for treating it, I invite you to read my most recent article in Skin Inc. Magazine.

Of course, I welcome your individuals questions about dry winter skin. Feel free to post them here or on the Lexli Facebook page.

What's all the fuss about peptides?

Lexli International — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 19:35:05 GMT

Peptides seem to be all the rage these days - and not just within the medical and scientific community. My patients and Lexli customers often ask whether or not they should be looking to this skincare ingredient to help them reduce the signs of aging. My answer: there is certainly encouraging research surrounding peptides, but it will be years before we really know how impactful they are.

Biologically active compounds that closely resemble proteins, peptides are chains of fewer than 50 amino acids. (More than this and it's generally classified as a protein.) Naturally occurring in the body, peptides have a number of functions. They may reduce inflammation, regulate bodily functions, or even help to control pain.

Within the past decade, peptides have found their way into skincare formulations. Three types of peptides are used - those intended to increase collagen production, those that limit muscle contraction, and those that encourage wound healing. Thus, you can begin to see how peptides may be useful in improving skin function and aesthetics.

Despite all these benefits, however, peptide usage in skincare formulations is accompanied by challenges. First, peptides have a large molecular size and are unstable in water-based formulations. (Most skincare products are water-based. Lexli is proud to be an exception to the trend.) Therefore, peptides aren't readily absorbed into the skin, a necessity if any positive benefits are to be achieved. Secondly, should peptides be absorbed, enzymes present in the skin can break down peptide bonds, causing them to be ineffective. Finally, a high concentration of peptides is necessary in a formulation. Because these ingredients are expensive, product costs rise significantly.

Skincare chemists have found ways to modify peptides characteristics to overcome some of these limitations. But, my opinion is that you shouldn't jump on the peptide bandwagon quite yet. Third-party research is beginning to show some promise for peptide use in skincare formulations but they aren't yet the "miracle ingredient" so many are looking for.

In July I wrote an article for Skin Inc. Magazine that provides more details on this topic. You can read it here.

As developments in peptide research continue to evolve, you can look to Lexli to provide you with the straight facts.

-Dr. A

Antioxidants: Our Molecular Crimefighters

Lexli International — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 03:03:05 GMT

The term "antioxidants" has become a health and wellness buzz word in recent years. Physicians and nutritionists regularly encourage consumers to eat foods rich in them, while consumer products regularly tout them on product labels. In fact, antioxidants now make a regular appearance in skincare products, ours included. But, have you ever wondered what it is they do? And, are they really that beneficial or are they just hype?

Let me answer the last question first: antioxidants are definitely beneficial to the body. They're like the soldiers of our cells, disarming the free radicals that threaten cellular damage. Not only do free radicals lead to disease, including heart disease, Parkinson's disease and even cancer, they're also a leading cause of aging. In the skin, free radicals cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin, the proteins that give skin strength and elasticity. When collagen and elastin break down, fine lines and wrinkles develop. Therefore, you can see why antioxidants are beneficial in skincare products.

Because our bodies don't store antioxidants, it's important that we regularly replenish our supply. The list of foods that contain them is plentiful. In fact, to find those highest in antioxidants while checking the levels present in your favorite foods, visit ORAC Values.

So what about the use of antioxidants in topical skincare products - what percentage of the antioxidants that are applied to the skin actually reach the deeper layers? And, of those that are absorbed, does the skin actually use them? In 2009, a team of fellow researchers and I implemented a study that demonstrated use of a topical skincare product containing antioxidants does, indeed, increase antioxidant levels within the skin. Furthermore, a study by Burke demonstrated that, when applied topically in proper form, antioxidants like vitamin C and E and selenium "arm the skin with a reservoir of antioxidants that cannot be washed or rubbed off, protection which stays in the skin for several days after application."
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Given these facts, there are a few simple guidelines that should be followed to increase your body's antioxidant levels and, thus, optimize its ability to fight disease and combat the signs of aging:

Eat a Healthy Diet
The best way to obtain antioxidants is by eating a diet rich in whole grains, beans, fruits and vegetables - the brighter the color, the better.

Limit Exposure to Conditions that Promote Free Radical Production.
Avoid environmental toxins like pollution and cigarette smoke. And, it should go without saying, avoid excessive sun exposure, as UV exposure is one of the main producers of free radicals.

Take a Daily Supplement
A daily multi vitamin that includes several antioxidants, like vitamins A, C and E, as well as selenium, is beneficial on numerous levels.

Use an Effective Topical Antioxidant Formulation
Research has shown that combining oral antioxidant supplementation with topical antioxidant formulations is beneficial to ensuring optimal protection of skin from photoaging (aging caused by UV exposure). To be effective, however, the formulation must optimize the delivery of antioxidants to the skin by using a base (the main ingredient in a formulation) that can be absorbed by the skin.
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Antioxidants are currently the subject of countless research studies, due to the promise they hold for many disease states. Thus, I expect there's still much we'll soon learn about optimizing their use. As the topic evolves, we'll bring you the latest updates.

In the meantime, if you have questions about antioxidants, leave them in the comments section and we'll be sure to get you the answer.

- Dr. A

What does “Sun Protection Factor” mean anyway?

Lexli International — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 20:45:08 GMT

If you’re like most individuals, your assumption is that the higher the SPF, the broader the protection. And you’d be correct. However, the protection derived from products with an SPF greater than 15 is generally greatly exaggerated.

Another way to look at SPF is in terms of the amount of time it would take you to burn without sunscreen. For example, if you normally burn in 15 minutes of sun exposure, SPF 15 gives you 15 times the protection, or 15 x 15 = 225 minutes. But don’t rely too heavily on that number. The key to ensuring you’re protected from the harmful effects of the sun’s rays is the regular reapplication of sunscreen. Perspiration and water exposure wash sunscreen off the skin. (There’s no such thing as a “waterproof” or “sweatproof” sunscreen, mind you.) For best results, reapply every few hours.

Dermatologists, plastic surgeons and estheticians look at SPF 15 as the baseline level to look for in a sunscreen. This is because of its ability to block about 92% of UVB rays, the rays responsible for burning. As you increase the SPF number, the gains are minimal. For example, SPF 30 protects against 97% of UVB rays and SPF 50 against 98%. Still, for those with fair skin, SPF 30 or higher is recommended.

Skincare Products: Aloe vs. Water

Lexli International — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:43:09 GMT

Despite all the advancements in modern medicine and research, nearly all the acne treatment products on the market today, including Proactiv, are water based. While water is one of the best things for people to drink, it is not one of the most beneficial ingredients for skin care products. It is impossible for water based acne products to be fully helpful because human skin does not absorb water from the outside, therefore these products cannot penetrate and moisturize the skin. There are several side effects that can occur while using these products including: dry and itchy skin, peeling of their skin as well as red blotchy spots that are hard to hide.

In order to make sure you are getting the best acne product for your money, and not wasting it on a water based cream or ointment that will just dry out your skin, it is important to look for acne treatments that are aloe-vera based. Aloe-vera contains over 75 nutrients with a total of over 200 active compounds, which means it is full of skin beneficial minerals that water lacks. Aloe based skin care products will help eliminate skin inflammation and make the healing process faster.