Exfoliation is one thing in the skin care industry that has been very misled. We hear a lot about “gentle exfoliation,” but there is no such thing! Exfoliation is by far the most important part of your skin care regimen next to sun protection. It is your second morning step and third step in the evening.
The skin is living tissue made up of several layers trying to maintain its thickness. The top layer is the keratin which thickens as dead cells accumulate. Next is the epidermis and then the dermis. The dermis is the protective layer which, if properly cared for, results in healthy looking skin. The perfect skin is like that of a baby. As the dead layer thickens, the dermis thins resulting in unhealthy-looking skin. When this happens, or as we age, our body produces less collagen. Loss of collagen and sun damage cause unhealthy skin.
Since keratin builds up constantly, daily exfoliation is needed to prevent the buildup of dead layers. Skin looks healthier when collagen is stimulated regularly. Mechanical exfoliation includes scrubbing with a lot of force, microdermabrasion or laser procedures. Chemical exfoliation includes acid peels by a skin specialist or over-the-counter products.
Most of us would not be able to scrub hard enough to remove many dead layers. Men who shave daily actually are exfoliating that area. The skin of the shaved area is healthier than other skin on their face. So that leaves professional help through procedures and peels or home products strong enough to do the job.
The problem with home products is getting enough acid with hydrogen ions in the exfoliant without causing a burn. Acid peels must contain enough hydrogen ions that, when applied to the skin, will break down the dead layers. Alpha hydroxy acids are used most commonly in exfoliating products. The most common and potent one is glycolic acid, produced by sugar cane.
There are also beta-hydroxy acids available, but Dr. Abdullah warns, “They don’t do much because they are not strong enough. There are two ways to measure the strength of an exfoliant; the percentage of acidity and the pH. The pH is a better indicator. Our skin’s pH is around 6.5. Neutral pH is 7.0. A product needs to be more acidic than our skin to be effective. The lower the number, the more acidity. Most over-the-counter products contain a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. This is high enough to prevent burns, but not low enough to work well exfoliating everybody’s skin. Most physician-prescribed products are available at a pH of 3.0 to 4.5.”
With this in mind, Dr. Abdullah began formulating a unique product that would have a pH low enough to exfoliate but not easily cause a burn to occur. After two years of testing, AloeGlyC Renewing Exfoliant, his patented product, became available to the public. With a pH of 2.3, it is made by his skin care company Lexli International. Aloe, an inflammatory, mixed in prevents the burn. Beads of Vitamin C in the formula contain antioxidants and encourage collagen production.
Using the product is simple. After applying AloeGlyC Renewing Exfoliant to the skin, wait 15 minutes before applying a moisturizer or make-up.
He recommends, “Start using it once a day for a week. You will notice some flaking, but that means the product is working. Your goal should be to use it twice a day after that. Each individual’s skin type will determine the daily regimen. Oily skin may require one application daily. The advantage to this product is you don’t have to procure a prescription to buy it. After a few weeks you should notice reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, plus improved skin texture and clarity.”
Print | posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 12:00 AM